I have been sneaking trips off to the workshop for an hour or so to try to make some more progress. While the video in Ch 25 shows that the car is vaguely drive-able, the effort in doing so without a foot-brake, accelerator pedal set too high, choke not controllable, and the starter and ignition on a board just out of reach of the cockpit, meant that more jobs need to be completed.
I started with the brakes. Having discovered that Roy had done an amazing job in cleaning out the old master cylinder reservoir, I was able to jam it back into the cylinder and fill it up with brake fluid – LHM of course – and then found the “one man” bleeding kit I had purchased some many months before for this very purpose.
Following the instructions, I connected it all up to the front tyre as it is intended to pressurise the system in this manner. Result, brake fluid everywhere as it forced itself out of the top of the reservoir. Off I trotted to the back brake to release the bleed valve and tried again; still leaking. I then read somewhere that this system was not necessarily suitable for the 2cv brakes. So I resorted to the “one man” method of poking the brake pedal with a long bit of wood; this was perfected when we were bleeding the Pembleton brakes (Chapter 1 if you haven’t read about the first 2cv encounter). Amazingly, I had some pressure in the pedal and going round the car bleeding the system seems to have pressurised it enough that the pedal does not need to be pumped. Not sure of the theory here but the proof will be when I take the car out to test the brakes.
Next to be done was the accelerator cable because the old, cut down, cable was now too short! So I have reverted to the idea of using a Shimano brake cable which is now installed and other than needing a bit more trimming looks like it will work; the improved “slipperiness” inside the Bowden cable means that the cable can run round sharper corners without sticking. I have also purchased direct from Burton a choke cable which is installed at the carb end. I am still thinking about where the knob should go – Burton style on the dash, or Callum style on the gear lever support.
This photo shows the present mess of wiring and cables from which very shortly order will come from the chaos.
Next the wiring loom. I spent a long time reviewing photos I took when I went to Burton to see how much of the loom has to come through to the engine compartment, and drilled through the body to allow it to come through in the correct part of the engine compartment. Being a LHD loom in a RHD tub gives a few more problems – lights and indicators will no doubt be reversed, and I needed to remove the fan to rerun the 123 wiring out to the side where the loom now runs. I will now fix the loom inside the dash and make whatever connections I can make and then test the electrics. I miss not having a wiring diagram and therefore hope that I will have made the correct connections and not run the risk of burning everything out.
If everything checks out we will need to consider the layout of the instruments before drilling all the holes. I favour one of the Burton layouts as in the pictures.
Still to come – petrol does not seem to be getting through from the tank to the pump and the engine only starts with a direct injection into the carb. To be investigated.
Also, looking at the video the tub is still pretty ugly and needs the rear wings to be fitted and then the front ones. I can then complete the wiring in the engine compartment.
Work done 2016 to date:
Mar 2016 x fill both front drive shafts with grease Apr 2016 x Cobra Seats http://www.cobraseats.com/ re head restraints Apr 2016 x fit chassis/body lugs Apr 2016 x fit body adhesive strip (initially to body only Apr 2016 x Fit Burton exhaust - look for s/s strips in Burton bags Apr 2016 x Fix wiring loom in body and follow manual for finalising body Sep 2016 x Fire up engine Sep 2016 x cowling off to investigate oil leak Sep 2016 x how does fan belt connect Nov 2016 x find battery securing bar and drill hole for bolt (fits at the base of battery) Nov 2016 x fit new gaiter to o/s middle of drive shaft Nov 2016 x Connect clutch - but after body fitted Nov 2016 x look for Burton loom separate bit. Nov 2016 x check what hoses I have/need for heating and ventilation Nov 2016 x Torque bolts for: gearbox mounts Nov 2016 x fit gear lever bracket to body Nov 2016 x fit steering column and articulated joint Nov 2016 x fix gearlever support to floor of chassis Nov 2016 x investigate 12v socket to fit in n/s ex steering hole on dashboard Nov 2016 x Put 2cv battery on charge in garage Nov 2016 x look at filter for carburettor and see if it adapts to match burton photo - with power tube Nov 2016 x refit rear 123 covering Nov 2016 x replace fan cowling eventually to take powertube Nov 2016 x fit new reflinard Dec 2016 x master cylinder - front connection to rear brakes, middle connection to other side of gearbox caliper Dec 2016 x white wire attached to battery negative to connect to screwed battery holder Dec 2016 x Clean master cylinder Dec 2016 x Fit Master cylinder reservoir Dec 2016 x buy burton choke cable Dec 2016 x work out how steering lock works Dec 2016 x change rocker cover gaskets Dec 2016 x Locate engine compartment on wiring loom and connect relevant bits Dec 2016 x Tidy up fuel supply to pump and onto carburetor Dec 2016 x Find heater control for inside car Dec 2016 x check if new oil leak (onto chassis!) - new rocker cover gaskets need fitting Dec 2016 x drill body to connect accelerator Dec 2016 x Fit connecting pipe between calipers Dec 2016 x Fix air filter Dec 2016 x Fit runners for seats Dec 2016 x fitted heater control Dec 2016 x fitted temp connection to ignition switch Dec 2016 x fitted temporary connection to x6 in engine compartment Dec 2016 x drill hole to brace battery tray Dec 2016 x connect cable to oil sensor (behind) fuel pump - Block 6 wire 87 Dec 2016 x two more body to chassis bolts in the boot! Dec 2016 x run 123 wires up and to rhs (maybe!! - check rest of wiring loom for connection) - no LHS Dec 2016 x look at bulkhead end of existing acc cable and determine fixing Dec 2016 x fit remainder of handbrake bolts Dec 2016 x replace oil feeds from block to heads
Hello
Just found your blog, very interesting so far. Looking at building a Burto, hence my interest.
Re fuel delivery issue. I have had several 2CV type cars over the years and the fuel pump can be a bit of an Achilles heel. I once went through three in as many weeks. Check if yours is original Citroen, if not then get an original part, more expensive but all the ones that I have had fail were non Citroen. Also check the pump actuation / drive rod, I had one of these bend once, took me a while and a new pump before I looked at it.
Regards
Hi Mark
Thanks for your message and the tips about the fuel delivery.
I would recommend the Burton as a project, not least because of the way it builds, looks and drives, but also the Burton support which is excellent.
If you build one, check into your Country’s (Denmark?) registration requirements as the UK is proving to be a nightmare. Otherwise, the works flows well and you should probably pay more attention to the manual than I did!!
Callum Beveridge has built several (and given me lots of help) and has produced his own manual for a RHD version and is worth looking at, I can email you a copy if you would like.
Do let me know if you go ahead with one and if you fancy a chat you can always call me on +44 (0) 1483 284 688
Best wishes
Keith